About Me

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Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais, Brazil
I started thinking about keeping this blog since moving to Brazil at the end of last year. It’s my way of keeping a diary of sorts, something I have wanted to do, attempted, and failed in the past. However much I try to replicate Twain-esque narrative, it doesn’t happen. It is also, obviously, a way to keep in indirect contact with everyone I left behind and miss very much in England. So I hope whoever reads this will excuse the lack of literary innovation, and hopefully just enjoy reading about all my experiences as I go... So, here goes...

Thursday, 9 February 2012

January 2012...

Moving to Brazil was a last minute decision by many accounts. We first discussed it in February 2011, and by April the tickets were booked. Those of you who know me well will know I have never been one for much contemplation or “mulling”, which I guess has somewhat got me into trouble in the past! Only time will tell if the outcome is the same this time around, it’s still early days! After discovering that my Granddad was terminally ill in July, the initial move in August was only 6 weeks long, and I returned to England in September for 3 months to spend time with him, and sadly lost him in November. He truly was a unique and passionate man, and someone who will continue to inspire me in both my work, learning and attitude to life for a long time to come. These months in England allowed me time to reflect on the slightly rushed decision to move half way around the globe, and encouraged me to grab it by the balls! I was back in Brazil by Christmas, to spend the festive season with my new Latin family.

Christmas was a strange time, both due to the grief I was experiencing, and the radical non-resemblance to any other Christmas I have had. It would normally involve a turkey, some snow and a drunken debate round the Holden dinner table, rather than sun, cerveja and a total retreat of all human life for 5-hour afternoon naps. The mass of food was probably the only identifiable feature! I turned to watching ‘The Holiday’ as some kind of attempt at comfort. Something about England, cottages and snow gave me that Christmas craving satisfaction. Although Cameron Diaz still hasn’t lost that gratingly cheesy edge since the last time I checked. New Years Eve was slightly more uniform...too much alcohol, some singing and dancing, and a much overhung NYD. The first 3 weeks back were a blur of festivities, tropical rain and the sense of it still being more a holiday than the real ‘I live here’ deal, which is only now starting to hit home.

Now that I’m back at work, both in Fabi’s restaurant and teaching English, I feel a little more levelled. Not in the ‘this is normal’ sense yet, but at least I have begun to build a routine, which I had really started to yearn for after 6 months of not working. I had already realised how unaccustomed I was to life over here the first couple of weeks in August – I couldn’t speak, understand or even wash up in Brazilian – but trying to structure daily life around an alien culture is challenging, as I think anyone will agree who has lived out of their native country. I didn’t realise how English I am. At times I feel I want to change everything and do it MY WAY. And at others I have to say ‘Lucy, unclench, you are living in Brazil, embrace it and feel the disorganised love’. Happily things are coming together with the private teaching – I already have 3 students, and the number seems to be growing weekly – and the family restaurant business is going well after a shaky few months last year due to unexpected closure of the old site. I currently work here during the busy lunch period (it’s a pay-per-kilo affair), and hopefully after my Portuguese course starts in March I will be able to do more than nod along and laugh. I am of course being self-deprecating, my understanding of the lingo has actually improved more quickly than I had expected, but the difference between piecing conversation together and forming an intelligible conversation is vast, and I have mountains to climb! People for the most part are understanding and interested in where the’ extrangiero’ is from and what she is doing here. There’s the occasional person who makes you feel as if the Dolorian has taken you back to the 1500’s when only people of Portuguese speaking ability were welcome, but I put this down to the heat – it can get to anyone...

There are many things about Brazilian life, of course, that will take me a while to assimilate to, the food being another one of them. Cow stomach for lunch anyone? Chicken hearts? I personally try to avoid putting anything in my mouth with its aorta still attached. Having said that, Brazil also has some great culinary things going on, one of my favourites being Pao de Queijo - little doughey, cheesy balls of calorific loveliness. Before my initial trip to SA in ’09 I never much cared for sweet treats, but being in Brazil positively sweetened my tooth. I am now rather particular to pudim, arroz doce and many of the other sugar laden delights on offer. And the fact that most savoury meals are cooked with shed loads of garlic suits me fine! The attitude to drinking out here is also welcome – the heat and the laid-back outlook means that any hour is ice-cold cerveja o’clock which, again, is not a problem (unless it’s teamed with full-volume funk in the bar opposite your house at 10am on a Sunday morning). But to avoid the risk of sounding downward slanted on life as a whole out here, I do honestly like the openness of it all; it is challenging and therefore character-building I think! And Fabi’s family have welcomed me with open arms and made me feel very much a part of it all which has made the transition that bit easier.

So right now life is about pushing through until we can get back on our feet again. We are currently staying at Fabi’s Dad’s house until we can get a place of our own – a blessing and great kindness from his Papai of course. But I think one important aspect of being able to settle is having your own space, so I’m very much looking forward to that in the near future. Other things to look forward to are Carnaval, which we are spending by the beach in Vitoria with Fabi’s cousin, Wemerson, and his lovely new Canadian wife, Meghan. My Mum is then set to arrive (eek!!!) on the 28th for OUR WEDDING!!, which will take place on March 2nd. I really cannot believe it is so soon, both in the sense that I will be a married woman, and that we have absolutely nothing organised! It will all fall into place (maybe I’m fitting in better than I thought!) This is the initiation of a two-part affair, the second of which will take place in England at some point in the near future, hopefully next year, but who can say!




3 comments:

  1. Hi Lucy, really interesting to read your post, it has most definitely taken me back to the time I was trying to settle into Brazilian life! I admire your ability to be positive despite the challenges you face, as personally I found this quite difficult for the first year I was living here. Even today, I have my moments, but I am definitely much more used to things. I don't think the "saudade" feeling for family and friends ever goes away though. I'm sorry to hear about your grandfather, I am currently going through a similar situation as my grandmother was diagnosed with a terminal illness last year, around September time. I was grateful to be able to go back and spend some time with her over Christmas, but it was extremely difficult leaving again. Anyway, good to see you've started a blog as it's always nice to hear tales from others in the same situation. (I'm Mel, from the Facebook group, by the way -don't think it says my name on my blog!)

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  2. Lucy just trying to make this work. Was lovely to see you when your mum and I came to see you and the lovely supportive family you have married into. Shame I could not converse with your new father in law. You will know how much your mum wanted and enjoyed to see you. Will do a blog of our adventures if this works!
    Love John

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  3. Thought I would put together some thoughts about our recent trip to see you, Lucy. Obviously these are rather personal reflections but may be of interest to you and others who I know are coming over later. We visited 4 places – Belo H, Rio, Paraty and Itatiaia.
    The books will not have much to say about Belo as a place to visit but I enjoyed that very much. But I guess that had to do with seeing you and the wedding and so on. Our trips out to the waterfall and Ouro Preto were great and clearly having Fabiano to highlight the sights was a great help. I also enjoyed observing the way the family worked and the affection and support that everyone gave each other. I personally feel much more comfortable about the whole set up than quite frankly I do before the visit.
    We went then to Rio on the bus and that was fine as was our Pousada Margarida. However I felt I was living in a fortress with guards on the buildings and warnings about being out at night and of course my misgivings were justified after Joanna was jumped on in the attempted bag snatch. Not a nice moment and the views and beach did not overcome my lack of enthusiasm for Rio.
    Then to Paraty by hire car and this colonial town was a gem where we felt comfortable in our splendid Pousada. Greatly enjoyed boat trip and a day at Trinidad beach - which appealed far more than Rio to this subdued hippy with its more tatty charm. The restaurant called Merlin the Magician (in Portuguese) was really good. In general however I found Brazilian food rather bland for my taste although it was not as impossible to be largely vegetarian as I had expected and the kilo restaurants made life easy and relatively cheap. Best was home cooking in Belo H! However prices were far higher than in places like Indochina etc so we managed to spend more than I have ever spent on a holiday without going particularly wild!But expected that.
    Then to Itatiaia where again we had a smashing Pousada. However I was most disappointed with the desecration of the Atlantic Forest everywhere and the indifference (and ignorance) that prevailed when I spoke to Brazilians including University Professors. I won’t drone on about that and we had a fine time walking in forests which even here were not really mature. An enduring memory was to see the original Indian inhabitants of the now destroyed forests. They were helplessly without hope selling trinkets and clearly on the periphery of society. But perhaps it was better to accept Christian promises of heaven rather than the Christian bullets that have slaughtered 90% or so of them. Again there seemed no interest in land rights or compassion among the Brazilian white population. No doubt the church, state, military and financially wealthy have things sorted and have no wish to change things.
    Anyway I am off my hobby horses and have to say that it was a great experience to visit you and Brazil and no doubt my generalisations are in part statistically invalid and the individuals we met were really sweet and kind.

    Take care

    John

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